Southeast of Lone Pine, on the other side of Owens Lake is the lively ghost town of
Cerro Gordo. The name is Spanish for "Fat Hill," which undoubtedly had nothing to do with anything rotund but meant fat with silver.
Some Mexican prospectors (Pablo Flores is one of the names remembered) found silver here in 1865 and in its peak year, 1874, its three smelters turned out 5,300 tons of bullion worth $2,000,000. Its total production (well into this century) totalled $17,000,000. And it was to speed up the process of getting all that silver down to Los Angeles that something truly remarkable went on.
As hard as it is to look at the quiet and "empty" Alabama Hills today and envision literally hundreds of actors and horses and technicians scurrying like ants all over them, it is equally impossible (for me, anyway) to drive by the parched Owens Dry Lake and picture boats chugging back and forth. Boats in the desert? You betcha.
The Owens Lake is (or was) the natural collection point for all the streams flowing into the Owens Valley. Before the
Los Angeles Aqueduct (completed in 1913) diverted the river water, the lake covered 100 square miles and was at places 30 feet deep. And in the 1870's, today's tiny Cartago was a bustling port town!
The 85-foot
Bessie Brady brought silver bullion from the Cerro Gordo mines to the landing at Cartago where
Remi Nadeau's celebrated 14 to 20-mule teams took it on down to Los Angeles. On the return trips, those freight wagons would bring food, grain, machinery, etc. up across the blistering Mojave for the mines.
Later, a second steamboat called the Molly
Stevens also towed barges across the middle of the lake. And even those two boats have stories behind their names.
The
Bessie Brady was built in 1872 by James Brady and named for his daughter who christened the new boat at Ferguson's Landing that July 4th.
The next year, since the mines at Cerro Gordo needed wood and plenty of charcoal for its smelters,
Colonel Sherman Stevens built a sawmill and flume in Cottonwood Canyon where trees were plentiful and shipped his lumber, mine timbers, etc. across the lake first on barges behind the
Bessie Brady, then later on the
Molly Stevens, built in 1877 by Stevens and named after his daughter.
During this period, Olancha got into the act, too. It maintained large corrals for all those freight teams, which kept Cartago from clogging up. Some of those cottonwoods in Olancha, incidentally, were transplanted from Cottonwood Creek in the 1880's by a pioneer rancher to help make it the shady roadside stop it is today and was when it was a way station for the Owens Valley-Mojave stage.
OLLP