Norman Clyde - Owens Valley Mountaineer 2

A Half Century of Climbing
[Excerpt from "Close Ups of the High Sierra" by Norman Clyde, 1966; illustration - Ruth Daly]

1914 was the first year that I did any climbing of any account in the Sierra. Climbing at that time was what mountaineers sometimes term "free climbing." Ropes were seldom used and those that were, were not adequate and probably no one knew anything about the technique of using a rope in climbing. An ice axe was seldom or never seen. Any ice cutting that was done was usually done with some sort of a wood axe. As to foot gear, there was a tendency to wear at least moderately high boots. These were often of a very good grade and their owner was oft times quite proud of them. Often they were provided with Hungarian nails or hobnails. The former were fairly satisfactory until worn flat, so that the wearer was likely to do considerable skating around on smooth rocks.

In the twenties there was considerable change. Personally, I learned the technique of rope climbing from Swiss guides and the Canadian Alpine Club in the Canadian Rockies. Thereafter, I seldom did any serious climbing without carrying a standard seven -sixteenth -inch rope or a lighter one, which I called an "emergency" rope and which was adequate for roping down; what was coming to be known as rappelling and for occasional belaying. Ice axes were seen occasionally. A few climbers took to wearing boots provided with Swiss edge nails. Somewhat later I changed to Tricouni nails. These were better on snow and ice than the edge nails, but not too satisfactory on smooth hard rock. For rock climbing, I usually carried a pair of rubber-soled shoes - preferably crepe rubber - in my rucksack. Most Sierra climbers had some sort of rubber-soled shoes in reserve.

The techniques of rope climbing gradually improved, also "hardware" climbing came more or less in vogue, particularly on the walls of Yosemite. At first pitons were used merely as a safety precaution reserve on difficult pitches. Some climbers, however, came to depend more and more upon them, and were able to make climbs that otherwise would be impossible.

Later, in the matter of footgear, there was a gradual change from nailed soles to cleated rubber ones, at first to the Bramani design. Somewhat later a further change was made to the Vibram type, which came near to being an all-around satisfactory mountain climbing boot than any other boot yet produced. Climbers, who encountered much ice and snow may supplement these with crampons.

Today, climbers in the High Sierra may be roughly divided into several groups. One group, which may be the walkers, seldom goes past Class 2 climbing. These often do not carry rope. Another group is satisfied with Class 3 and Class 4 grades, seldom going beyond. These usually do and always should carry a rope and often carry along a few pitons and carabiners, to help themselves over a difficult pitch. If there is snow and ice, they add an ice axe. Lastly, are the technical rock climbers, who are not happy unless they encounter a liberal measure of Class 5 and Class 6 pitches.

All forms are legitimate, if proper safety measures are followed. There is room for all. Some may not think "hardware climbing" is justified on account of the supposed risks involved. Properly equipped and careful climbers, however incur less dangerous exposure on Class 5 and Class 6 routes than untrained men inadvertently may on Class 3, or even Class 2. Everyone to his taste. "De gustibus non disputandum est, as the old Latin proverb goes.